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Anthropologie In Hot Soup Over Codeword For Black People After BLM Post

By Mikelle Leow, 12 Jun 2020

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Image via DW labs Incorporated / Shutterstock.com

Lifestyle brand Anthropologie has come under fire after a Black Lives Matter response post triggered alleged past employees to argue that, no, Black lives never mattered to the company.

The high-end brand reacted to protests standing up for racial equality by sharing a quote by Maya Angelou reading, “We all should know that diversity makes for a rich tapestry, and we must understand that all the threads of the tapestry are equal in value no matter what their color.”

Anthropologie neglected to state if the quote was to show its support for the Black Lives Matter cause, prompting internet users, including fashion watchdog Diet Prada, to point out that it could have been a tribute for All Lives Matter, a movement dismissing Black Lives Matter.

The main criticism was Anthropologie’s purported hypocrisy and performative activism, as several Instagram users claiming to have worked for the company have stepped forward to corroborate that they were trained to profile customers by race. They were also allegedly instructed to refer to Black shoppers with the codename, “Nick.”

The alleged former staff members were surprised to find that the moniker was used beyond their own locations. Thus far, employees across stores in California, Chicago, Seattle, New York, and Canada have shared that they were taught to use the same discriminatory code, according to screenshots saved by Diet Prada.

View this post on Instagram

Another day, another boho Karen retailer showing their true shades of beige. Last week, @anthropologie posted a Maya Angelou quote in splashy colors as a “call for equality”. With any mention of the #BlackLivesMatter movement absent, Angelou’s words could be interpreted more along the lines of “All lives matter”, lest Anthro offend their primary target audience. In the comment section, oblivious fans clamored for it to be released as a t-shirt or a poster. ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ Also in the comment section— claims of deep discriminatory practices. The code names different retailers have used to profile POC shoppers have come to light in lawsuits over the years—Moschino’s “Serena”, Zara’s “special order”, or Versace’s “D410” (the merchandise color code they use for black shirts)—but Anthropologie’s is maybe the most insidious yet. Comments from multiple employees confirm that stores in California, Chicago, Seattle, NYC and Canada use the code name “Nick” to refer to Black shoppers. Associates report being told to watch Black shoppers, and Black shoppers also commented confirming having been followed while shopping in their stores. ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ Anthropologie followed up with a post of a black square and then some promises of action they’ll take. At the same time, more hypocrisy was taking place at the corporate level. While the retailer was posting about committing to diversifying their workforce, they were at the same time asking POC for free labor. On May 26th, Queer Black creator Lydia Okello ( @styleisstyle ) was approached by a producer to potentially partake in Anthro’s #sliceofhappy Pride month campaign in exchange for a free outfit. ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ Okello replied with their typical rates and ended up getting trapped in a back and forth volley with no resolution after being told there was no budget for an influencer of their level (22.8k followers). For a campaign aimed to express what happiness means, surely they could’ve anticipated that no one, especially in a month meant to celebrate them, is happy to work for free. • #blacklivesmatter #blm #anthropologie #anthropologiehome #anthro #retail #codename #work #free #influencer #microinfluencer #labor #dietprada

A post shared by Diet Prada ™ (@diet_prada) on Jun 10, 2020 at 12:58pm PDT



Customers also said they now understood why they felt discriminated against by sales attendants in Anthropologie outlets. Some reported being followed around closely by staff.

Anthropologie later shared a post promising to support the Black community by diversifying its workforce and donating US$100,000 to the United Negro College Fund.

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Here at Anthropologie, with our fellow URBN brands at our side, we support and stand with the Black community. We’ve been listening, learning, and reflecting on how we can improve diversity and combat racism. We’re committed to doing better – to being better – and it starts right now. ⁣⁣ ⁣⁣ Here are our promises to our community.⁣⁣ ⁣⁣ These are only the first steps. Many more must follow.

A post shared by Anthropologie (@anthropologie) on Jun 5, 2020 at 11:19am PDT



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However, it had one more hurdle to face. Black Canadian social media influencer Lydia Okello subsequently shared screenshots of a conversation with an Anthropologie representative asking if Okello, who identifies as nonbinary, could work for free in a Pride month campaign. When they declined, the Anthropologie contact said the brand had “no budget” for the campaign.

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On May 26th, I was contacted by a producer at @anthropologie to take part in a Pride campaign. I responded with my rates for the campaign requirements. The response was that there was no budget, but that the producer would be happy to email to discuss rates.⠀ ⠀ The email was a longer pitch, including a request for an advertisement on my Instagram page and 3-5 images for them to use wherever they would like. With no budget. ⠀ ⠀ The above are screenshots from our conversation, including a “nudge” in my DMs this week to respond to the email requests for free labour.⠀ ⠀ Throughout the interaction, I stated my price and was met with no compensation. “No Budget” means that I was approached with no intent to ever be paid for my time and labour, let alone my experiences as a Black queer person. Only after many messages/emails was there acknowledgement that I should be compensated. Even in that response, there was gaslighting. I stated my fees from the very first message.⠀ ⠀ This happens to Black creatives constantly. Especially in the fashion industry. We are made to feel that we ask for too much when we bring up fair compensation for labour. It is implied that we should be happy with what we get. Shouldn’t we just be happy that a big brand wants to work with someone like us?⠀ ⠀ I’ve been “paid” in exposure numerous times in the last 12 years as a style blogger. Which I now refuse to do. But, in this case, it is quite confounding that a multimillion dollar company would reach out to someone with “no budget”. Especially when it involves the Queer Black Voices™️ it would like to align itself with, and use in advertisements. Seems timely, no?⠀ ⠀ We need to hold brands accountable to their lip service. In fact, with BLM being a “hot topic” to a lot of corporations, this is going to happen FREQUENTLY. Folks will want to capitalize on Black bodies & Black labour for the lowest price possible, as they have for several hundred years. ⠀ ⠀ The final slide is a post from June 5 on the brand page. When Anthropologie says “black lives do matter” what does that mean? When they plan to diversify their workforce, is it this free Black labour?⠀ ⠀ #payblackcreatives #MyAnthropologie

A post shared by LYDIA OKELLO | they/them (@styleisstyle) on Jun 7, 2020 at 8:20am PDT



Anthropologie eventually shared another post to defend itself, writing, “You may have seen that we have been challenged to be more transparent, unbiased, and fair in our stores and with our business practices… Regarding allegations of racial profiling, we have and will never have a code word based on a customer’s race or ethnicity.”

Social media users continue to denounce Anthropologie for apparently lying about this. “I worked at Anthro for five years in two different stores. The ‘Nick’ code name definitely exists, ” Instagram user Leigh Elion replied under its followup post. She added that one of the locations even had a second nickname, “‘Connie,’ as in con artist.”

“The racial implications of that are clear as day, and it made many employees deeply uncomfortable,” she continued.

View this post on Instagram

We support and stand with the Black community.⁣ ⁣ You may have seen that we have been challenged to be more transparent, unbiased, and fair in our stores and with our business practices. We want to clearly lay out our policies regarding these matters and share them with you.

A post shared by Anthropologie (@anthropologie) on Jun 10, 2020 at 7:29pm PDT




Screenshot via Instagram


Screenshot via Instagram



[via The Cut, images via various sources]
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